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Where escapes start

Escape of water means water released from pipework, appliances or heating, as defined in escape of water. The Association of British Insurers has linked rising escape of water costs to how homes have changed: more plumbed-in appliances, more central heating, more en-suite bathrooms and downstairs toilets, more complex and hidden pipework, and less damage-resilient materials in floors. Its figures, which run to 2017, showed the average claim rising by almost a third in three years. They are old, but the causes they describe have not gone away.

That list explains why prevention is about a short set of places rather than the whole house. Water escapes where a joint is under pressure, where a flexible part ages, or where a seal depends on someone keeping it in order. The three habits below are built around those points.

Habit 1: know the stop tap and make it turn

Thames Water says to locate your inside stop tap so you can switch off the water quickly if a leak occurs, and that the stop valve is usually under the kitchen sink. The habit is to open and close it fully twice a year, on a date you will remember, so it does not seize when it matters.

If it will not move with firm hand pressure, leave it and ask a plumber to replace it; forcing it can crack the pipe it sits on. Make sure everyone in the household, including lodgers and older children, knows where it is. In a flat, find out whether you have your own stop tap or whether the only shut-off is a communal one, because that changes your plan.

Habit 2: look at the same places every quarter

The point of looking at the same places is that you notice change. A stain that was not there in January is a signal; one that has always been there is a puzzle. Take a photograph of each spot on the first check so you can compare.

  • Under every sink: pipework, the isolation valve and the flexible connector for dampness, green crust or drips, and the cupboard floor for swelling.
  • Behind and beside the washing machine and dishwasher: hoses, taps and the floor.
  • The seal around the bath, shower tray and screen, and tiles that sound hollow when tapped.
  • The ceiling below any bathroom, and the walls beside the boiler and cylinder.
  • The loft: tank, overflow pipe and pipes, for dripping or a lagging jacket that is wet.
  • The boiler pressure gauge, if you have one: a pressure that keeps dropping between top-ups is worth a note.

Habit 3: act on small signs within the week

A drip that sounds trivial can run for months. The cost of an escape is often the time it runs, so the useful rule is a deadline: any new damp patch, drip or musty smell gets a proper look within a week, and gets a name: a tap fault, a seal, a joint, or unknown.

Unknown is the answer you act on. A damp patch with no visible source, a stain that returns after drying, or a sound of running water with every tap off cannot be solved by looking harder at the surface. The page on signs of a hidden water leak lists the patterns, and the home leak walk-round checklist gives a structured way to go room by room.

If the cause stays unknown after your check, the next step is to find it with instruments before anything is opened. That locate visit is one price to locate the leak, £580 for a single property. No VAT is charged. No find, no fee applies when a live leak inside your own property cannot be located. A small repair, such as tightening a fitting or replacing a small part on the pipe, can be done on the same visit once the leak is found; see leak repair after detection.

Beyond the habits: ranked by cost and benefit

The habits cost nothing, and a ten-minute seasonal version is in the winter leak check routine. The jobs below cost something, so they are ranked by how much loss each prevents against the effort and money it needs. Cost is shown as low or moderate rather than a figure, because London plumbing prices vary by job. The ranking is a judgement from where escapes start, not a measured league table, and a house with a loft tank and old pipework has different priorities from a new flat.

RankJobEffortCostWhat it limits
1Lag exposed pipes in lofts, garages and outside walls with foam insulationAn hourLowFrost splits
2Replace flexible hoses that are old, bulging or undated, and write the date on the new one30 minutes eachLowHose failure behind appliances
3Re-seal a failed shower or bath sealA morningLowWater behind tiles and under trays
4Add isolation valves to taps, toilets and appliances that lack themA plumber’s visitLow to moderateTurns a flood into a closed valve
5Fit an access panel over concealed joints when a room is rebuiltPart of a refitModerateOpening up a floor or wall to find a leak

Why the bigger jobs rank lower

Isolation valves and access panels are good protection, but the benefit arrives later and the cost is higher when the work is done on its own. A valve saves a flood only if a fitting fails and someone closes it. Both are worth doing when the plumber is already there or the floor is already up. The page on where to fit isolation valves ranks the places, and flexible hose replacement covers the age question. Do not undo fittings on live pipes or drain the heating system yourself; those are quick jobs for a plumber. A battery sensor is a cheap addition between checks; see where to place water leak sensors.

What these habits cannot prevent

A routine catches what you can see. It will not reveal a hairline crack inside a wall, a joint under a floor that has begun to weep, or a leak on a pipe in the ground outside. Those show up as a stain, a pressure drop or a sound long after the fault begins. Habits shrink the number and size of escapes. They do not make a house leak-proof.

If damage has already been done, what to do after a water leak at home sets out the order, and the escape of water insurance claim guide covers a claim. For the moment an escape does happen, the page on stopping an escape of water covers the first ten minutes, and the escape of water refit checklist covers the choices to make when a room is being rebuilt.

Sources

Association of British Insurers, escape of water claims figures (2014 to 2017) and causes, republished on a water-industry register blog, read in October 2026.

Thames Water, winter advice for customers (January 2026), stop tap and lagging, and frozen or burst pipes page, read in October 2026.

Questions customers ask

What is the single most useful prevention step?

Knowing where the stop tap is and that it closes. It limits any escape, whatever caused it. Thames Water says the stop valve is usually under the kitchen sink. Open and close it fully twice a year so it does not seize, and make sure everyone in the household knows where it is.

How often should I check under sinks?

Every three months is enough for most households. Look at the pipework, the isolation valve, the flexible connector and the cupboard floor for damp, green crust or swelling, and take a photograph on the first check to compare against. A change is the signal, not the age of a mark.

Is a small drip worth worrying about?

Yes, because the cost of an escape is often the time it runs. A drip that goes unnoticed for months can soak a floor or ceiling. Give any new drip, damp patch or musty smell a proper look within the week and name it: a tap fault, a seal, a joint, or unknown.

Which paid jobs are worth doing first?

Lagging exposed pipes in lofts and garages and replacing old or undated hoses come first, then resealing a failed shower seal, then isolation valves. Access panels pay back mainly when a room is being rebuilt. The ranking is a judgement from where escapes start, not a measured league table.

Does home insurance replace these habits?

No. Insurance pays after the loss, and Thames Water advises checking that your policy covers leaks and bursts. Prevention reduces the chance of a claim in the first place and the time a leak runs. It also limits disruption, which a payout does not undo.

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